tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15793912409614388612024-03-13T17:54:48.387-07:00One Tough CostumerCostume news, events, and projects, sewing hints and tips, and the latest from my business, Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-27107077249145144162011-10-03T13:00:00.000-07:002011-10-03T13:02:14.997-07:00Let's make this perfectly clear:The company "Historical Clothing Patterns" is not associated in any way with my company, "Historic Costume Patterns". I have asked them to change the name and they've ignored me. I don't want their reputation for customer service and quality of product being confused with mine. So please, if you are referring to either company, be sure you have the right name!<br /><br />Please pass this information around as much as you can. I'm sorry to have to take this issue so public, but they've left me no alternative.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-78600864711498930152011-09-26T22:30:00.000-07:002011-09-26T22:59:07.387-07:00Current ProjectsSee? I wasn't kidding when I said my posting would be intermittent.<br /><br />So it's been a while, and I still haven't finished the linen Tudor gown. I did get the eyelets in the bodice and try it on, and the hemp cording gives me a lovely softly curved, but smooth, line. All I have to do now is attach the skirt and hem it.<br /><br />The only other big sewing I did this summer was to make a modern cocktail dress out of a gorgeous magenta and gold silk sari. I really had to struggle to allow myself to use that fabric for something that wasn't a costume. Am I the only one who has trouble with that? <br /><br />The main thing I'm working on is the Italian Lady's Underpinnings patterns. At least, that's what I'm calling them, but almost all the pieces can also be used for English or other European costume. There's a camicia, or chemise, a gored petticoat, a rope stiffened petticoat, an underbodice that can be made of stiff fabric or corded, a linen partlet, and a tie-on pocket. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQwJqLtDuNVIMCpPZ55sHsLoOqFQi0UinLFTXvJ6Vui7Xt4LGQX1SncrOOKC5sMx9TQJYY9Mu9MV06Rl71YFKSuabTASJ1BbT4QF8vvC6M9uLasX0rZXN0bMYgAqf_Pqz4x2C9Ele2O4ha/s1600/italian-undies-group.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 247px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQwJqLtDuNVIMCpPZ55sHsLoOqFQi0UinLFTXvJ6Vui7Xt4LGQX1SncrOOKC5sMx9TQJYY9Mu9MV06Rl71YFKSuabTASJ1BbT4QF8vvC6M9uLasX0rZXN0bMYgAqf_Pqz4x2C9Ele2O4ha/s320/italian-undies-group.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5656914374220966498" /></a><br /><br />The patterns are drafted, graded, and are in the hands of a group of ladies who are testing them for me. Meanwhile, I'm hard at work on the illustrations for the instructions. I'm using a new tool, Adobe Illustrator, this time around, and it goes much faster. I'm hopeful that this first Italian package will be ready far sooner than usual.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-42875248503876500252011-05-21T12:22:00.000-07:002011-05-21T21:55:25.060-07:00Adventures in Costume Supply Shopping, Part 2: The Office Supply StoreI'll admit it, I love office supply stores. It's like the cosmetics counter: Hope you can buy. I wander around looking at all the wonderful organizational tools and imagine having a serene life with everything in its place and all my life tasks detailed on 3x5 cards. I can dream, right? <br /><br />While I'm there, I also, of course, keep my eyes out for costuming supplies. Here's what I've found.<br /><br />Every sewing space should have a <span style="font-weight:bold;">bulletin board</span>, for hanging swatches, sketches, take-out menus, and stray pattern pieces. Ideally, it should hang over your sewing area so that instruction sheets can be hung from it. If there isn't room there for a full board, consider a <span style="font-weight:bold;">bulletin bar</span>, a narrow strip of cork that can be mounted beneath something else.<br /><br />If you need to enlarge gridded patterns, a<span style="font-weight:bold;"> flip chart pad </span>with 1" gridded lines is perfect. The sheets are 2' x 3', so they're big enough for most bodices and sleeves, and can be taped together for bigger pieces.<br /><br />Speaking of tape, stop torturing yourself trying to keep track of those little plastic dispensers and use them with one hand while you're drafting patterns. Buy yourself a good heavy <span style="font-weight:bold;">desktop dispenser</span> and a multi-pack of tape rolls. There. Doesn't that feel better?<br /><br />While we're making patterns, go to the mailing department and get a roll of <span style="font-weight:bold;">brown paper</span> for cutting final patterns. <br /><br />Now, on to what I call the "notions department": all the little things for hanging, attaching, and marking.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Binder clips</span> are very useful. The small ones can be used to "pin" leather pieces together while sewing. They're also good for clamping pieces when gluing. The bigger ones are great for hanging pattern pieces, and for clamping slippery fabric to the table to keep it in line when you're cutting. You can also use two of them to clamp a trash bag to the edge of the table, or under the serger.<br /><br />If you need to store lots of small things, install an Ikea curtain wire along a wall or the bottom of a shelf, and string binder clips on it. Clip zip fastener plastic bags on to it, and fill them with small notions, trims, fabric swatches, or whatever else you want to keep organized but visible.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Poster putty</span> is handy for hanging your instruction sheets and other materials if you don't want to put holes in your walls, but be aware that it's a real pain to get off textured walls. I also like to stick a blob of it on the side of my sewing machines to hold small tools like seam rippers and tweezers.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Labels and stickers</span> can be used for labeling, of course, but if you want to be really organized looking, get yourself a <span style="font-weight:bold;">label printer.</span> Having matching, professional looking labels on all my drawers and containers really helps my mindset.<br /><br />You still want to visit the label section, though. Small labels dots for file folders can be used to create a marking system for sewing. Use them to indicate right and wrong sides of the fabric, in place of cutting notches and marking dots, or to label pieces when you're making multiple versions of the same garment. Be sure you do a test on a scrap of fabric, ideally leaving the sticker on for 24 hours before you try to take it off. Some fabrics, especially fragile ones, can be distorted or marked by the pulling when removing the sticker. <br /><br />Check out the children's art and school supplies section for <span style="font-weight:bold;">chalk</span> (much cheaper than the fabric store kind) and <span style="font-weight:bold;">washable markers, crayons, and glues</span>. Be sure to test them on a swatch to be sure they'll really wash out. <span style="font-weight:bold;">Washable Glue sticks </span>are fabulous for "basting" trims and appliques. The ones that go on purple and dry clear are nice. Try not to put the glue on the areas where you'll be sewing, because they'll gum up your needle. If this does happen, a little rubbing alcohol will clean it up. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">School glue</span>, or washable white glue, is also good for basting.<br /><br />If the store has an art or drafting department, look there for <span style="font-weight:bold;">rulers, french curves, and squares. </span><br /><br />Office supply stores have a wonderful selection of organizers and storage devices.<span style="font-weight:bold;"> Desk drawer organizers </span>keep all your small sewing tools in order. A <span style="font-weight:bold;">rotating desk organizer </span>is handy to keep on your sewing table with your scissor and a few other often used tools. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Binders</span> are good for storing instructions, inspiration pictures, printouts, and, of course, the instruction manuals for Margo's patterns. <span style="font-weight:bold;">Plastic sheet protectors, hole reinforcements, and dividers</span> help keep all this organized. <span style="font-weight:bold;">Binder rings</span> are good for holding things like swatch cards, plastic bags, and zippers.<br /><br /> Use an <span style="font-weight:bold;">index card<span style="font-weight:bold;"></span></span> system to keep track of your fabric and pattern stash. Swatches of fabric can be staples to the cards. Punch a hole in one corner of each card and string some of them on a binder ring when you're going shopping for matching supplies. Another way to organize your stash is to use a <span style="font-weight:bold;">business card binder</span> with plastic pockets.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Rolling drawer units</span> can be your best friend when you don't have enough storage space, especially if you don't have a dedicated sewing space. You can even sew covers for them so that they blend into your decor when not being used. <br /><br />Office furniture can also work well in a sewing space. A <span style="font-weight:bold;">file cabinet </span>is the perfect place to store patterns. Make cardboard dividers so that you can store the smaller ones in double rows. Two 2-drawer cabinets with a door across them makes a good sewing table.<br /><br />A folding <span style="font-weight:bold;">banquet table</span> can be used as a cutting table, although the 30" width can be annoying. To bring it up to a comfortable working height, stand it on a set of bed risers or use PVC pipe to create leg extensions (more detail in the upcoming Home Improvement Store section). <br /><br />An armless rolling <span style="font-weight:bold;">task chair </span>is ideal for sewing, but be prepared to have to take a seam ripper to the castors to remove threads at intervals. <br /><br />That's all for the office supply store. Next: Grocery and Kitchen stores!Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-80478950898414790282011-05-18T21:12:00.000-07:002011-05-18T21:55:27.234-07:00Adventures in Costume Supply Shopping, Part 1: The DrugstoreThis is the first of a series of posts on odd shopping places for costumers. Whether we're seeking replacements for historical items that are difficult or impossible to find nowadays, or trying to create an effect from pure imagination, we use odd materials in unexpected ways, and we're always looking for new ideas. You can't take us to a store, any store, without finding us staring at some mundane item with the light of speculation in our eyes.<br /><br />Today, we're shopping at the drugstore. <br /><br />My first stop is the dental aisle. Pick up a pack of dental floss threaders. They're great for threading the serger's loopers, and to use as a "needle" when stringing beads onto a large diameter cord.<br /><br />While you're there, grab a package of orthodontic wax. A small pellet of this, stuck on the end of a toothpick or skewer, makes a picker-upper for individual rhinestones or small beads. <br /><br />Dental floss is great for stringing beads, and in a pinch, for sewing on buttons. I like the flat waxed ribbon floss for gathering. Lay it on your gathering line and stitch over it with a wide zigzag stitch, going over, not through, the floss, creating a casing and drawstring. Pull the floss up to the desired size and tie it off. This is much faster and stronger than pulling up machine stitching. <br /><br />Now, on to the hair accessories department!<br /><br />Spring clips can be used to "pin" a hem up, and so can bobby pins.<br /><br />Do you want to add elastic button loops to a garment, but can't find the right color elastic? Covered hair elastics come in a huge variety of colors. <br /><br />When working on a large piece of fabric, it's often easiest to roll most of it up, for example, to fit it through the harp of the sewing machine. Use a couple of large plastic hair clamps to hold the roll in place. <br /><br />In the cosmetic department, Take a look at the cosmetic bags and travel kits. They can be great for organizing anything form notions to sewing machine feet. A large travel case with many compartments and loops to hold makeup brushes can make an excellent travel sewing kit. <br /><br />Mineral makeup eyeshadow can, in a pinch, substitute for charcoal powder when transferring a design for embroidery by the "prick and pounce" method.<br /><br />Now, on to the pharmacy area. Here you'll find day of the week pill organizers that are perfect for small items like beads, snaps, and the like. Pick up a box of exam gloves to wear when doing messy projects like dyeing.<br /><br />Finally, get yourself a box of baby wipes. They're perfect for doing quick cleanups n your sewing machine bed, like when you're going to sew white linen right after black velvet, and they also do a great job of removing surface dirt and stains from costumes. <br /><br />Stay tuned for Part 2: The Office Supply Store.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-3841988265779056432011-05-04T22:46:00.000-07:002011-05-04T23:16:11.821-07:00When Cording Goes Wrong, or, How Not To Do What I Did.I started on the hemp corded bodice for my lavender Tudor kirtle today. If you're not familiar with hemp cording, check out Jennifer Thompson's excellent page at <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/cording/cord.html">Festive Attyre.</a><br /><br />Because the thickness of the cording can cause the piece to "shrink", I traced the pattern onto my linen fashion fabric and added 2" all around. Then I pinned the fabric to the backing fabric, a cotton linen blend I've had in my stash forever. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOa5wckJgKwc5dGdpAQsPCKbQNbNcBQPDiG0n537ucg782wQaMRr8KsAR_0nK-TwQaXCA25vyd1XeNUl2d1CMDpXS67YtVbEbgTtg5Dme0L5jh-5oYY_rUzZKKxiuGv2mcq7Y_28bHWKsO/s1600/corded1.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 169px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOa5wckJgKwc5dGdpAQsPCKbQNbNcBQPDiG0n537ucg782wQaMRr8KsAR_0nK-TwQaXCA25vyd1XeNUl2d1CMDpXS67YtVbEbgTtg5Dme0L5jh-5oYY_rUzZKKxiuGv2mcq7Y_28bHWKsO/s320/corded1.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5603111201982720210" /></a><br /><br /><br />I turned on an interesting audiobook and started to stitch, using the width of my sewing machine foot to make lovely parallel rows 1/4" apart. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizg8F9DpjHYlQ-EhAJBuyHn_2CdxLpZRApcgXV9doL2HRAeQP9Oz6nFiCU_VnEUIa_MAU-rfqNzlkmHE63h76BMELQLEatRHLafw1m3eHcx7LoKpLRLH6uiUqvhWm54UyJBCe_wg7KrYSo/s1600/corded2.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 169px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizg8F9DpjHYlQ-EhAJBuyHn_2CdxLpZRApcgXV9doL2HRAeQP9Oz6nFiCU_VnEUIa_MAU-rfqNzlkmHE63h76BMELQLEatRHLafw1m3eHcx7LoKpLRLH6uiUqvhWm54UyJBCe_wg7KrYSo/s320/corded2.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5603111373433923922" /></a><br /><br />I started from the center line of the front piece and worked my way outward. The first half went fast and looked great. I went back to the center and started working my way out in the other direction. My book was getting more interesting, and I zoned out and just stitched, till I was almost done.. and then I looked at it and saw what I'd done.<br /><br />Apparently, i got a little bit wonky with one of my stitching lines. And then I followed that line for the next one, and so one, and so forth. With each repeat the line got a little more exaggerated, and by the time I noticed, my stitching looked like this:<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIlQ_ru38yfRMswFbJe5A1HFPru2u432ccBgrlzm5cpVeHUD-WRstylYEqkRvrjW8rPFe3J5dBAxf7KaXOi_u1WjWdGD554vJIJ6YNa1c8rBMJE82td3ylmaOiNwGJRRNQeMScOqC6f5iv/s1600/corded4.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 169px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIlQ_ru38yfRMswFbJe5A1HFPru2u432ccBgrlzm5cpVeHUD-WRstylYEqkRvrjW8rPFe3J5dBAxf7KaXOi_u1WjWdGD554vJIJ6YNa1c8rBMJE82td3ylmaOiNwGJRRNQeMScOqC6f5iv/s320/corded4.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5603111739731664786" /></a><br /><br />So I had to take a seam ripper and rip out a dozen or so tightly stitched rows. And then, to add insult to injury, I realized I'd ripped on the wrong side, where the perfectly good, straight stitching was. That's when I decided to call it a day.<br /><br />How to avoid doing what I did is simple: Watch what you're doing, and check your work once in a while. You'd think after almost 50 years of sewing I'd have figured that one out.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-82458651117101999812011-05-03T13:22:00.000-07:002011-05-03T14:08:48.472-07:00Between moving, caring for injured and elderly parents, and other things life has thrown at me, I haven't been here in quite a while. But now I'm back, and I thought I'd share some of my current projects. I'll just do a quick list here, and make more detailed posts as they come along.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfK20mq0HPSxVingSLvMsqGSiNyZpH_krTnUJoi3vP4CDgBX3GDwqhm6LvtR8gSpzn_Y1B7SUveE4dcsvhflxHOY8PU3tu-C3xq3hjEUMzrvtbiFfVCBcpX7mQWz38mxnyv_K9W9a7FQ2r/s1600/Eleanora_of_Toledo.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 183px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfK20mq0HPSxVingSLvMsqGSiNyZpH_krTnUJoi3vP4CDgBX3GDwqhm6LvtR8gSpzn_Y1B7SUveE4dcsvhflxHOY8PU3tu-C3xq3hjEUMzrvtbiFfVCBcpX7mQWz38mxnyv_K9W9a7FQ2r/s320/Eleanora_of_Toledo.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602592867210841842" /></a>First, I'm creating a custom pattern for my friend Laura, who is making the Eleanora of Toledo dress. She's blogging about it here: https://theeleonoraproject.wordpress.com/ and you can see some of the pattern pieces I've created there.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoRVUujkxFw0RJAoPKiyER1YqB665tBnt1otJ5-iArqpDqSjsJtoe07z-fjR7Uae1p_9PVSQnea5GhaQzNdzVIxMnwK64Zum6SvnjI4nSObclmyS_5x_qjC-4woRYVdhxulPU29-PaKyE8/s1600/Tudor+Kirtle+me.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoRVUujkxFw0RJAoPKiyER1YqB665tBnt1otJ5-iArqpDqSjsJtoe07z-fjR7Uae1p_9PVSQnea5GhaQzNdzVIxMnwK64Zum6SvnjI4nSObclmyS_5x_qjC-4woRYVdhxulPU29-PaKyE8/s320/Tudor+Kirtle+me.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602597515531651986" /></a>I'm making myself a Tudor kirtle, in a dusty lavender linen. I want to start going to more SCA events, and currently my costume wardrobe tends toward the sumptuous and less than comfortable. I need something cool and comfortable, because I can't take heat well.<br /><br />My son has just been cast in a school play as the ghost of Richard Burbage, one of Shakespeare's actors, and he needs a costume. I don't have a final design for it yet, but I've started making thread wrapped buttons for it. <br /> <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnN-R2JAL1cfMzi4MSxBKc8FZSS8zCkinre0JgcdIDMx85CrWiDxSxGRRRSajuL-jsEdJ_MA4z4G2RvS0Wyl0MhtLrLg8-U5I1wjUVvh9L28451merK6e7uhyzqac9V-tTFLB_8Q0gZeaP/s1600/white+venetian.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 190px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnN-R2JAL1cfMzi4MSxBKc8FZSS8zCkinre0JgcdIDMx85CrWiDxSxGRRRSajuL-jsEdJ_MA4z4G2RvS0Wyl0MhtLrLg8-U5I1wjUVvh9L28451merK6e7uhyzqac9V-tTFLB_8Q0gZeaP/s320/white+venetian.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602599620328740162" /></a>And finally, I'm working on an Italian Lady's wardrobe pattern, or possibly two, if I can't make both Venetian and Florentine play nicely together. As part of my warming up exercise for the project, I'm making a Venetian ladder laced gown. I'm making it in white brocade, so it will be sold as a historical costume that can also serve as a wedding dress. Yes, I know brides in the period didn't necessarily wear white, but most modern brides still want to. <br /><br />So that should keep me busy for a while!Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-85787059702127320442009-09-18T11:30:00.000-07:002009-09-18T11:40:47.787-07:00The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe Pattern is now shipping!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh34tIZAz2sBKSFu0UtpwssdPKZrsYcqEDrwnd3TY8xr62pcpv_0P7i6VdhLOz5k4fmdXhaP04HGmwuK-eQ8n7sWLAmD6RlUIGk2f_wlMZpBKKw1-FcxfDrqoZxeJxHvzZ7iIr-qI7S6boo/s1600-h/Tudor+Women+Cover+8-29.gif"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 309px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh34tIZAz2sBKSFu0UtpwssdPKZrsYcqEDrwnd3TY8xr62pcpv_0P7i6VdhLOz5k4fmdXhaP04HGmwuK-eQ8n7sWLAmD6RlUIGk2f_wlMZpBKKw1-FcxfDrqoZxeJxHvzZ7iIr-qI7S6boo/s400/Tudor+Women+Cover+8-29.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382879064988036354" /></a><br /><br /><br />At long last! The Tudor lady's Wardrobe Pattern, with patterns for Smock, Kirtle, Gown with three sleeve styles and optional train, two partlets, two coifs, English gable Hood, French Hood, apron, and sash.<br /><br />In addition to being the most complete Tudor pattern package ever published, it includes our largest instruction manual yet: 194 pages, and over 300 illustrations. <br /><br />Click on this post's title to see details and order.<br /><br />I'll be taking a much needed break for a week or two, and then starting on the Tudor men's pattern.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-60256823190372397542009-08-20T16:10:00.000-07:002009-08-20T23:18:37.706-07:00Faux (don't call it fake!) FurThe Tudor Lady's pattern is almost ready, and I'm sure a lot of you are thinking about fabric and notions. <br /><br />One of the strongest identifiers of the Tudor woman's style is those long, wide sleeves, turned back and lined with rich fabric or lush fur. But where do you get the fur?<br /><br />You can, of course, use real fur. I don't, personally, choose to use new fur, which means I know next to nothing about how to find or buy it. You're on your own on that one. <br /><br />I do occasionally use second hand vintage fur, figuring I'm not doing any more damage to an animal that's been dead for 50 years. However, the chances of finding a vintage garment large enough to cut these sleeves is highly unlikely. That leaves us with "faux" fur.<br /><br />To find faux fur, go to your local Big Fabric Store. Then go home and cry.<br /><br /><br />Okay, sorry, but the truth is, most retail fabric stores have awful looking fur. It's there for making Halloween costumes and toys, not for looking like the real thing. For that, you'll probably have to go online.<br /><br /> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNwUWoFb42VIuaXcNkdev0M1PFhA8ZpXI9saajrcRtT-jTlNEubAV5A5m21LDL4PZ5SszeTHEfZdAfu1LKQCiM2pPpaILhf8BJbTJtvbFFNH9vLo434sazvVXmU0DK7TrWrbaDeuCpR8b2/s1600-h/fur.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 160px; height: 160px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNwUWoFb42VIuaXcNkdev0M1PFhA8ZpXI9saajrcRtT-jTlNEubAV5A5m21LDL4PZ5SszeTHEfZdAfu1LKQCiM2pPpaILhf8BJbTJtvbFFNH9vLo434sazvVXmU0DK7TrWrbaDeuCpR8b2/s400/fur.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372204667956785410" /></a>One of the best faux fur companies available to the consumer is <a href="http://fabulousfurs.com/">Donna Salyer's Fabulous Fakes</a>. This company started by selling kits to make a close copy of a high quality fur coat.They've transitioned to ready to wear, but they still sell yardage, although they keep it tucked away on their website. To find the yardage, go to the "Home and Throws" section, and then look in the list on the left to find "faux fur fabric".<br /><br />Now, these fabrics aren't cheap. In fact, they're $150 a yard, and you need 1 3/8 yards to line the gown sleeves. But they do look, well, fabulous. <i>Edited to add:</i> I had a link to a discount coupon here, but it's been pointed out to me that they may not appreciate me handing it out to you all. I'll try to find out if it's okay. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ63gKp2uLn53W3o-l2EpMJ94ifk_MSgyuKQurC_T-qwBvTBmcKEflF4NkIqjAKT4L8mAkgeFSLH-X1Zw3x2GYidoz7Q-U58F_8HJRLpUofaO-KXVbOnf51sgLS_Q7Sj3V1U1_I0_lmbsO/s1600-h/fur2.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ63gKp2uLn53W3o-l2EpMJ94ifk_MSgyuKQurC_T-qwBvTBmcKEflF4NkIqjAKT4L8mAkgeFSLH-X1Zw3x2GYidoz7Q-U58F_8HJRLpUofaO-KXVbOnf51sgLS_Q7Sj3V1U1_I0_lmbsO/s400/fur2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372205146726126130" /></a>For those with lesser budgets, <a href="http://www.imstuffedfur.com">I'm Stuffed Fur</a> has a huge selection of all kinds of fur, from lime green Wookie to some very real looking animal furs. They deal in job lots and sales, so if you want something, buy it now. You can also call or email them and ask for something specific. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Fur isn't a requirement. You can line the sleeves with fabric instead of fur. Or, you can go the opposite direction, and copy Jane Seymour's gold bullion embroidered sleeves:<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIf3Rp0YQ4uuNGZg6C9J7I_EkRVXTZpdfZS41z9i2g9_ueQ02TjENAN0SJdrmUOL5RzQf18xSgFx_EEJjNOY_BVWZtyQknk4maJbiba3hIcGU9jvUBYfw-icKG9r09-Dmwpfj9-zQ7YCq/s1600-h/janeseymour.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 218px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIf3Rp0YQ4uuNGZg6C9J7I_EkRVXTZpdfZS41z9i2g9_ueQ02TjENAN0SJdrmUOL5RzQf18xSgFx_EEJjNOY_BVWZtyQknk4maJbiba3hIcGU9jvUBYfw-icKG9r09-Dmwpfj9-zQ7YCq/s320/janeseymour.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372203598670151090" /></a><br /><br />Just for the fun of it, I used my pattern drafting software to plot and measure that embroidery pattern. Then I priced gilt bullion thread. To do the sleeves and the band of matching trim around the neckline would cost $700.<br /><br />It makes $150 a yard look downright reasonable.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-37413880859640668392009-07-28T16:25:00.000-07:002009-07-28T16:34:31.332-07:00Not Your Usual Sewing MachinesSome fun sewing machines, working and not:<br /><br /><a href="http://sternlab.org/2008/11/steampunk-sewing-machine/">Steampunk!</a><br /><br /><a href="http://blog.craftzine.com/archive/2009/02/win_a_crafty_chicafied_sewing.html">The Crafty Chica does her thing</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.seankenney.com/portfolio/sewing_machine/">This</a> is the same model as my main machine...in LEGOS. How awesome is that?<br /><br />Is it wrong that I want to use <a href="http://www.rhinestoneguy.com/cell_phones.htm">these instructions</a> on a sewing machine?Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-50645762857582001162009-07-28T16:03:00.000-07:002009-07-28T16:09:49.711-07:00Perfection Is the Enemy Of GoodOkay, I confess. When I last posted, I promised a Big Juicy Post. then I got busy. So busy, in fact, that I managed to forget which of several juicy possibilities I'd promised you. And then the whole project jammed up against "But I promised a really great post, I can't settle for something moderately interesting"...and, well, here we are months later, with no posts at all.<br /><br />I'm going to try to change my mindset, and just post a couple times a week, with what ver I think you'll like. Possibly, some of these posts will end up being fabulous, but it's okay if they're just moderately useful, cool, or amusing.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-78354949975853543552009-04-21T12:47:00.000-07:002009-04-21T13:15:39.798-07:00Nobody's PerfectIt's been too long! <br /><br />Those nasty taxes have been taking up too much time. I promise I'll have a juicy new post soon, but in the meantime I wanted to update my last post, about English gable hoods:<br /><br />Turns out, everything I said about them was pretty much wrong.<br /><br />When I made my first gable hood last year, I based it on a well known source. I thought at the time that the odd engineering, with the flared front, seemed awfully complex, but any costumer knows that people in the past did weird things for weird reasons. So I went ahead and made it that way.<br /><br />Then I started work on creating my own version for the Tudor pattern. You saw my previous conclsusion. But when it was time to actually make the final graded version of the pattern,I just could not come up with a method that would create a consistant pattern that wouldn't drive my customers to drink. <br /><br />I kept thinking this couldn't be right, so I decided to take another look at the original source material, and the notes from my researcher, the wonderful Kimiko Small.<br /><br />The first thing I noticed was Kimiko's statement: <i>Something I do want to point out for both redraws is that the narrow band/frontlet ‘E’ is attached to the under structure close to the face, and hides the edges of the padded band RS. I have seen several recreated English hoods where the narrow band/frontlet ‘E’ encloses the face inside a box, which it does not do. </i><br /><br />Now, I swear I have read every word of her research report several times. So why didn't I remember it when it actually came time to make a hood?<br /><br />Part of the problem was a drawing I was following. It does show the frontlet sitting on the outer edge of the hood on one side, but on the other side of the face, it's done an Escher-like twist and is on the inside of the face! So it's no wonder I was confused. <br /><br />I wondered if attaching the frontlet to the inside edge, rather than the outer, was part of the problem I was having. I cut a new one and made yet another manila folder mockup. It was better, but the difference in width between the back of the hood and the frontlet still caused the front opening to flare, making it twist. <br /><br />So I cut another frontlet, the inner edge of which exactly matched the back piece. Voila! No twisting, no torque, and the whole thing sat properly on my head and hugged the sides of my face the way it should. The hood understructure is simply a set of flat panels, and could have been made of thin wood, possible shaped into a curve with steam. <br /><br />So, I take it back. It is like wearing a box on your head, but a very carefully tailored, well fitted box covered with silk and velvet.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-18069850281440226272009-03-31T16:04:00.000-07:002009-03-31T17:37:07.265-07:00Mad as a Hatter!If you remember your Lewis Carrol, you know that March hares are as mad as hatters. So here's a hat post, in honor of the last day of March.<br /><br />I've been working on the pattern for the English gable hood. That's the goofy one that looks like this:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3GwYbpsqgHJFUIahKdnu841DiQTfASgnEqVxk8zUFW149aWaaK6jtlGGkRu21z9gID_JwHifoR1ykXtYC3UyqjnNSbTY7Mxrgh6U5DIV6py5mAYreOINstFAXKz-UGdkn1t2JmuUSnaXK/s1600-h/gableladyw.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3GwYbpsqgHJFUIahKdnu841DiQTfASgnEqVxk8zUFW149aWaaK6jtlGGkRu21z9gID_JwHifoR1ykXtYC3UyqjnNSbTY7Mxrgh6U5DIV6py5mAYreOINstFAXKz-UGdkn1t2JmuUSnaXK/s320/gableladyw.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5319509929314707138" /></a><br /><br />The Gable hood is a surprisingly complex bit of engineering. If you make a simple "roof" shape, the thing looks like a cardboard box sitting on your head. The trick is to cut the frontlet, the border part around the face, with a wider angle than the back piece, so that it flares in the front. But if you cut the frontlet too wide, the whole thing wants to twist and looks terrible. The only way to get this right is to experiment a lot.<br /><br />One of the things I like best about working with CAD software is that it's so easy to scale drawings. Rather than make full sized mockups, I scale the pattern pieces down to 1/3 size and print them out on card stock. Then I tape them together to test the patterns. This works best for things that are going to be stiff when finished, such as hats.<br /><br />This has come in handy with all the iterations of the Gable hood I've made. Every little change of angle affects something else, resulting in many trial versions. Here are some of them:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLq3W_lMjnOHcQPFMd3MSHNJ2D3oypuewJdO3RExBBOaAot6KQr5yJwBt9REDxjTpSjsd1EijW4Jz0L3Ucpz1AKDuDuD__mlmrf9wJrmBI4qwFg91g9td2mCgw6iPPKM6MujfE4yQE-wlC/s1600-h/Gables.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLq3W_lMjnOHcQPFMd3MSHNJ2D3oypuewJdO3RExBBOaAot6KQr5yJwBt9REDxjTpSjsd1EijW4Jz0L3Ucpz1AKDuDuD__mlmrf9wJrmBI4qwFg91g9td2mCgw6iPPKM6MujfE4yQE-wlC/s400/Gables.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5319512045395132738" /></a><br /><br />After futzing with them all day, and littering a 20 foot blast radius around my desk with schnibbles of card stock, I think I'm satisfied with this one:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiohjb_EpAcM9YeX2Qtl1i2jubg6jhB7rOH0BMFmL-c63PmWf3eGuugn6hpc7nKsvSqBSVQjJ-FuZ-Do0XHHLstHylBv4iApa5894xXjRwvBIoJrvPNl9PvDHni4y_xPhSq10wXHDqdr-cr/s1600-h/goodgable.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiohjb_EpAcM9YeX2Qtl1i2jubg6jhB7rOH0BMFmL-c63PmWf3eGuugn6hpc7nKsvSqBSVQjJ-FuZ-Do0XHHLstHylBv4iApa5894xXjRwvBIoJrvPNl9PvDHni4y_xPhSq10wXHDqdr-cr/s400/goodgable.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5319512599957837426" /></a><br /><br />And that's just the undercap. There's still a box piece that fits on the back, the lappets, and two different veil styles. And of course, they need to be embroidered and jeweled.<br /><br />If that's too much trouble, you could always go with the Margo's Patterns Deluxe Super Presto Easy Version:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz_MRicbywWtJdil0r9tEqOZpFsC1SqV4P5vSGF1LdXx0MHs3iuKGh9GcwFBAJn4RJ8foCcTMAO6_KJ1qDOAdrRe0r_6DTB-UbZdQ81YcngB2wYFsVQuapV6CbLpltHN8FfBZ2z2gRs3-f/s1600-h/Tudorbox.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz_MRicbywWtJdil0r9tEqOZpFsC1SqV4P5vSGF1LdXx0MHs3iuKGh9GcwFBAJn4RJ8foCcTMAO6_KJ1qDOAdrRe0r_6DTB-UbZdQ81YcngB2wYFsVQuapV6CbLpltHN8FfBZ2z2gRs3-f/s400/Tudorbox.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5319513259669508418" /></a><br /><br /><br />What can I say, things get a little punchy around here when we're working hard. I'm not alone in this. Here's our General Manager, Doug, in what he says is a Tudor Baseball Cap:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvlvbaMgs_AwMRRW6TWwQECoCtKkWbhtNN4UgRDRYqZDHad55_HLrK0cwJ1thBq8yDUyB_pu8bNY5j9q5OKRWa6nJvTcUxdBHTGpkLkG0-ZauPfSCxyQGhE7JKSeCpG6pvOy3tyzF6auKr/s1600-h/Tudorbaseball.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvlvbaMgs_AwMRRW6TWwQECoCtKkWbhtNN4UgRDRYqZDHad55_HLrK0cwJ1thBq8yDUyB_pu8bNY5j9q5OKRWa6nJvTcUxdBHTGpkLkG0-ZauPfSCxyQGhE7JKSeCpG6pvOy3tyzF6auKr/s400/Tudorbaseball.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5319513748617574530" /></a><br /><br />Happy Springtime!Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-67789229087041875382009-03-27T19:29:00.000-07:002009-03-27T19:32:25.879-07:00To make of sewing something attractive and cool with men of today and convince him of that he can sew without loosing him virility!Maybe I should just post this one to Ingrish.com.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-74253018473427059232009-03-15T13:58:00.000-07:002009-03-15T14:17:39.796-07:00Court Costume Re-makeI'm selling an costume on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/Stunning-Elizabethan-Renaissance-Gown-Plus-Size_W0QQitemZ230331182262QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item230331182262&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1730|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50<br /><br />It's actually a remake of this mess:<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9NM7iV8h7i7eunzNs7YV_ato2MILn_3a1sIhh1ObvUK05qJJEXb9xb_J1opnd93W6gvTFN4lOF8kdQGLxPbOI9Is83GE8XSJwqKIB0e1BnoGR57lfxs0Y2SM5sYxQ7YLa9SbOLut3VZfJ/s1600-h/12thnight65.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 289px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9NM7iV8h7i7eunzNs7YV_ato2MILn_3a1sIhh1ObvUK05qJJEXb9xb_J1opnd93W6gvTFN4lOF8kdQGLxPbOI9Is83GE8XSJwqKIB0e1BnoGR57lfxs0Y2SM5sYxQ7YLa9SbOLut3VZfJ/s400/12thnight65.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313523286434111282" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi67QLEdRM96sRz6BMax0EvhzQNC_Tv-97dcUW9FFD-WezNSIz-rbiur4sWM3_kYMY_7bYRmezd5p6BfI2Ix3Wq8unEzxZ5iukcbYJSiA24XWP-HchbTLyxKC6dTBb-7-h2Q6dqWFdVQmnB/s1600-h/DSC_2717.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 278px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi67QLEdRM96sRz6BMax0EvhzQNC_Tv-97dcUW9FFD-WezNSIz-rbiur4sWM3_kYMY_7bYRmezd5p6BfI2Ix3Wq8unEzxZ5iukcbYJSiA24XWP-HchbTLyxKC6dTBb-7-h2Q6dqWFdVQmnB/s400/DSC_2717.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313522965100668082" /></a><br /><br />Here it is now. <br /><br />What a difference. I took the skirt and bodice apart, re-trimmed them, and put them back together. Then it sat around for a few years because I still hated the way it looked on me. I added beads and jewels to the forepart and underskirt, made a new French hood, and wore it for about two hours at a CostumeCon. I finally faced facts that the gold colors just don't work for me. I was planning to make new sleeves and forepart in some other color, when I broke my Ipod, so I decided to spruce it up and put it on Ebay. <br /><br />I thought that was going to be an afternoon's work. Ha! It ended up being easier to pretty much remake the bodice than it would have been to get rid of the fraying edging. Thank Goodness I still had scraps of the fabric. I added tabs to the waistline, which made a huge difference in the looks. The tabs were cut out of my last remaining scrap, and the largest piece I had left after they were cut was about 1"x2".<br /><br />We'll see how this does. I have a few more outfits I'll probably never wear again, so maybe I'll get them up for sale, too. Tell your friends!Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-9298553308869522672009-03-15T13:42:00.000-07:002009-03-15T13:52:54.929-07:00Blackwork(ish) Fabric!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirXPR1a_iw-841CjN1H_RTqAN-1cVtoGBwgogqMX_8YZa6ECMMkyouDEaXkljuOACAnvB7x0h64Pxer7CsRUSEYonPYm-IudYBf8taKKQ6-XNTfc_fs-cXvtZJF1GTkJ8nlkugsj8wp3Wa/s1600-h/MyPicture.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirXPR1a_iw-841CjN1H_RTqAN-1cVtoGBwgogqMX_8YZa6ECMMkyouDEaXkljuOACAnvB7x0h64Pxer7CsRUSEYonPYm-IudYBf8taKKQ6-XNTfc_fs-cXvtZJF1GTkJ8nlkugsj8wp3Wa/s400/MyPicture.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313520272160905826" /></a><br />JoAnn fabrics has a fabric in stock right now that is a pretty good simulation of blackwork embroidery. It's a lightweight cotton, like a batiste, and the embroidery is in lengthwise rows, alternating one that's about 1" across and one that's 1/2".<br /><br />This fabric could be cut into strips to make collars and cuffs, or you could make an entire smock or shirt out of it. You could also be very Elizabethan correct and stop the embroidery at waist level, using a plain fabric for the lower half. <br /><br />If you want it, get to JoAnn as soon as possible, because this stuff is flying out of the stores. If your store doesn't have it, they may be able to get it from another store. Here's the SKU number: 128-6889Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-62771967997340747792009-02-24T15:41:00.000-08:002009-03-02T13:51:59.529-08:00Blackwork!One of my favorite embellishments for Tudor and Elizabethan costume is blackwork embroidery, also known as Spanish Work or monochrome embroidery. <br /><br />I enjoy embroidery, but time and a progressive hand condition mean that I can't do much of it. Yet, my costumes cry out for embroidery. <br /><br />I could buy a fancy sewing machine and learn to design and digitize blackwork patterns, but do I have room and time for another fascinating hobby? No. Don't even tempt me, not if you want to see new patterns!<br /><br />So, I was delighted to find <a href="http://www.thistlebees.com/basefile/chemise-cuffs.htm">Thistlebees</a>. They make and sell incredible machine embroidered blackwork cuffs, collars, and other items. Custom work is also available. <br /><br />I recently received these in the mail:<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidGR59X81IsHqG2JZpfqk6xzyz0cpJ38ZzR5uYtZJy2gZH8euttBCgukVtrWSQiMbZL7v2SPaxURmxWhhNKSVo7TWUW8flply5gan_KhHVXh9vcPPzzv5QoB4VZgt-wce62kyuP0QUORH3/s1600-h/cuff-fixed_gathered_seymour_emb.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidGR59X81IsHqG2JZpfqk6xzyz0cpJ38ZzR5uYtZJy2gZH8euttBCgukVtrWSQiMbZL7v2SPaxURmxWhhNKSVo7TWUW8flply5gan_KhHVXh9vcPPzzv5QoB4VZgt-wce62kyuP0QUORH3/s400/cuff-fixed_gathered_seymour_emb.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308667132390296434" /></a><br /><br />They're even lovelier in real life. Next, I'm going to have them embroider a smock for me, and the lining for a Mary Tudor partlet.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-26680017718920166222009-02-11T20:26:00.000-08:002009-02-11T21:00:29.961-08:00How I Do What I DoHave you ever wondered how a pattern is created? Here's how I do it.<br /><br />First, I do market research. This is a very formal term for what is often a very informal process. In the case of my first 3 patterns, the Elizabethan Lady’s Wardrobe Ensemble, my market research consisted of doing Faire and SCA for many years, and hearing and participating in bitching about why there were no good patterns and speculating on what they should contain.<br /><br /> I have a list of future projects that will keep me busy for at least five years. so now my market research is aimed at finding out exactly what pieces people want in a package. I do this by asking questions on Internet lists and at events. “So if I were to produce a Ruritarian pattern, what would you want it to include?"<br /><br /> Then it’s time for historical research. I had been doing research on the Elizabethan period for over 20 years when I started the company. At 51 years old, I don’t have time to do that with every project! So I’m working with consultants. The consultants are people who are experts in their own historical period. I contract with them to give me the information I need. <br /> <br /> Once I know the basic shapes of the garment pieces needed, I start drafting the patterns. I do this using a CAD drafting program called Symmetry, from Wild Ginger Software. Symmetry is no longer available, but they have a wide variety of new products. If you’re interested, check them out at www.wildginger.com. <br /><br /> To draft the patterns, I start with slopers or blocks, which are basic bodice, sleeve, skirt, and pants patterns. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgASLvoRLYNoPvbghAqQ6EbjC3CFIm8pvGhzqQVVjwWEBvmFees8uueCctMzZl5ym2xLsxX1uKZrSYTvcb4QpgbIlhlwOvjNvsDXjZxcfCh87JGt325jQmlTz7YiPs4T10idVetqLCTLpDY/s1600-h/block.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 371px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgASLvoRLYNoPvbghAqQ6EbjC3CFIm8pvGhzqQVVjwWEBvmFees8uueCctMzZl5ym2xLsxX1uKZrSYTvcb4QpgbIlhlwOvjNvsDXjZxcfCh87JGt325jQmlTz7YiPs4T10idVetqLCTLpDY/s400/block.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301765911904552098" /></a> <br /><br />Most blocks used in the garment industry are size ten. Since I have such a large size range, it makes more sense to start in the middle, so I draft in size 16.<br /><br /> I manipulate the slopers to give them the correct lines, using techniques such as changing non period darts to shaping seam lines or rotating them into areas that will later be removed, slashing and spreading to create fullness, and drawing in the correct necklines and other details. This creates the master patterns. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdAycnMNXnpd_8Hp6xcKrn8jDemyL8KPjxcnrSZbuq-H_dTAamhrewg3mocvUGNEFPT2yD42cYzHsA63WRDEzQOtSnCkd8GnGk8PX_O09MAnLfnWbN4BFFNhPuDUI-9o7FOCsM50F3u-6U/s1600-h/draftbodicefront.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 165px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdAycnMNXnpd_8Hp6xcKrn8jDemyL8KPjxcnrSZbuq-H_dTAamhrewg3mocvUGNEFPT2yD42cYzHsA63WRDEzQOtSnCkd8GnGk8PX_O09MAnLfnWbN4BFFNhPuDUI-9o7FOCsM50F3u-6U/s400/draftbodicefront.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301766273124005058" /></a><br /> After the master patterns are created, I add seam allowances and match points such as notches.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq9wNx8qEmKnfOnmeMrPfQ1o4s9xBXM4oVYnb1FYexn6tAapWVbQH9Mc3qB0zGrcKecZN1z0YDmodWeAVnxSg2DfaL9ON6tAie6c0D9qzL0kPR55d-urSvJ37bNA2cockEkfnBBMfO9ZpL/s1600-h/seam+allowance.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 327px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq9wNx8qEmKnfOnmeMrPfQ1o4s9xBXM4oVYnb1FYexn6tAapWVbQH9Mc3qB0zGrcKecZN1z0YDmodWeAVnxSg2DfaL9ON6tAie6c0D9qzL0kPR55d-urSvJ37bNA2cockEkfnBBMfO9ZpL/s400/seam+allowance.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301766557092059346" /></a><br /><br /> I check the patterns to make sure they line up properly, and that the garment looks and fits the way it should. Some of this can be done by computer, and some by sewing a mockup, also called a muslin or a toile, of the garment. <br /><br /> The next step is grading, the process of creating larger and smaller sizes from each pattern. Till now, I’ve done the grading myself with the Symmettry program, but for my latest patterns, I’m using a professional grading service. The patterns are graded into multisized “nests”. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixaW9k0S3HPzM3FwgBZ1xA9HRTGUmTtN-ebPvJnbErvavgIV3N-yPUPJaomxc_JBr5qOr0hh_WcP_orxlbBnKw5BPBOlVOoJp3GyUVWIornRLgZCElL6kPKqEqWZ8gDih-_4q6iDMQwP8I/s1600-h/grade.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 310px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixaW9k0S3HPzM3FwgBZ1xA9HRTGUmTtN-ebPvJnbErvavgIV3N-yPUPJaomxc_JBr5qOr0hh_WcP_orxlbBnKw5BPBOlVOoJp3GyUVWIornRLgZCElL6kPKqEqWZ8gDih-_4q6iDMQwP8I/s400/grade.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301766799887800962" /></a><br /><br /> I “style” the pattern by changing the lines to solid, dashed, or dotted, as needed, and making the lines thicker so they’ll be more visible.I add the sewing markings, such as notches, circles, grain lines, and size numbers, and assign each pattern piece an alphanumeric label and label them with the pattern name and number and the piece name.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0N9hA3ebIKZvd5RdEPsAR38w1OdayX9R2EkE-gCeOSYWUj9ET1L22asFI3JDAVqJkj88Vq7VP_6TMwRoZHYWf_QxDkdSjZuXlSRtzrqfQ_YqC-y1zL7h5i_7N-Z8EFVpoXWgtbpkI-TI8/s1600-h/styled.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 292px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0N9hA3ebIKZvd5RdEPsAR38w1OdayX9R2EkE-gCeOSYWUj9ET1L22asFI3JDAVqJkj88Vq7VP_6TMwRoZHYWf_QxDkdSjZuXlSRtzrqfQ_YqC-y1zL7h5i_7N-Z8EFVpoXWgtbpkI-TI8/s400/styled.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301769372191094178" /></a><br /><br /> The final step in pattern creation is to arrange them the way they’ll be printed. Getting all the pieces to fit on the designated size sheet can be a tricky challenge! My partner Doug does this part. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh63EOHNXUBUE4zdV8WUDubYVeZkKNaENf46srQW0G2bT_1gz_OSClLRvY8-C0LlvpfcQ3YQTh6lbX4MoQ0GGxnvo5SMF7jzye5_Chvv0lK_a3lD0QS6InYR4Oc_9673wfyvxtRYLxJwxHD/s1600-h/sheet.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh63EOHNXUBUE4zdV8WUDubYVeZkKNaENf46srQW0G2bT_1gz_OSClLRvY8-C0LlvpfcQ3YQTh6lbX4MoQ0GGxnvo5SMF7jzye5_Chvv0lK_a3lD0QS6InYR4Oc_9673wfyvxtRYLxJwxHD/s400/sheet.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301768435725478290" /></a><br /><br /><br /> Then we create a PDF of each sheet. The PDF’s are emailed to the printer. We contract our printing through McCall or Simplicity, the only tissue pattern printers in the US.<br /> The printers make a printing plate, and ship a paper copy to us. We then go over it one last time to make sure everything is in place. We always have a minor moment when we’re convinced that they’ve printed the sheet in the wrong scale. After months of staring at it on a computer screen, it looks so big! But careful measurement proves it’s correct, and we tell the printers to go ahead.<br /><br /> After I’ve finished creating the pattern, I take my family out for pizza, buy myself a good book, and take a day or two to lie around reading and doing nothing. Sometimes I get really carried away and clean my house, too. Then it’s time to turn my attention to creating the manuals.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-32851803892174710862009-02-09T11:15:00.000-08:002009-02-11T21:01:21.507-08:00Loose GownRecently I was asked if the loose gown, or surcoat, in my Elizabethan comfort package was historically accurate. The element in question was the upper back, which some people maintain should be pleated. <br /><br />Yes, my surcoat pattern is authentic. It's based on the 1570-80 kirtle and loose gown from the collection of the Germanisches National Museum, In Nurnburg, Germany. Detailed drawings and descriptions can be found on pages 109-112 of Janet Arnold's Patterns Of Fashion. The back is, as in my pattern, unpleated and only slightly shaped to the waistline. and then modestly flared. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl5pEdzt_pqEiyHQE_EmiSr60MqwTwYhzZXUZNL-1G7lDBEaoj7VD6TN_x15pyGQmypkeWdg3QJ1Rr6FZALGdQEyrhgG7j0LDVJpjJSm1aoSxYRH-NQHJWok4f6-PE25M6POkSngREDowt/s1600-h/Surcoat.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 318px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl5pEdzt_pqEiyHQE_EmiSr60MqwTwYhzZXUZNL-1G7lDBEaoj7VD6TN_x15pyGQmypkeWdg3QJ1Rr6FZALGdQEyrhgG7j0LDVJpjJSm1aoSxYRH-NQHJWok4f6-PE25M6POkSngREDowt/s400/Surcoat.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300881111603130754" /></a><br /><br /><br />For many years, Faire costumers made surcoats that looked like the Nurnburg gown, but with the pleated back. I do not believe this is correct. The style was popularized by the book "Elizabethan Costume" by Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy. <br /><br />They wrote the book before Patterns of Fashion was published, and I believe that they based their surcoat pattern on photographs from several costume books. The front view was the Nurnburg garment, but the pleated back was based on a photograph of another garment, a loose gown from 1610-15, also to be seen in Patterns Of Fashion, pages 118-119. This surcoat was pleated under the arms and across the back, but cut to be worn completely open in front.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ0sdvZ5vEqc95mM1_CaAQor9NuBaJ1kEvfJGytC3LzrsIHv8X9gilC8EQEh7OyMRZ1x1k3XF0fEsZnPv4xE150dh5rFoyQ7wjH4CJ2-oMvul1KU8i6uDVEV1kQcou-xtrGXdjX0Wx2oAo/s1600-h/Pleated+Surcoat.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ0sdvZ5vEqc95mM1_CaAQor9NuBaJ1kEvfJGytC3LzrsIHv8X9gilC8EQEh7OyMRZ1x1k3XF0fEsZnPv4xE150dh5rFoyQ7wjH4CJ2-oMvul1KU8i6uDVEV1kQcou-xtrGXdjX0Wx2oAo/s400/Pleated+Surcoat.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300881420488243458" /></a><br /><br />So, a good educated guess, that happened to be incorrect.<br /><br />This is not to say that some surcoats of the 1570's and 80's didn't have pleated backs, but it does prove that the flat, semifitted back is also correct.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-18117734121095277342009-02-05T10:14:00.000-08:002009-02-09T14:55:49.058-08:00Feets!Have you ever wondered what all those fancy sewing machine feet do? <a href="http://www.sewingmachine-sales.co.uk/sewing_machine_info/video/sewing-machine-feet.php">This website</a> has dozens of short videos that will explain it all.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-74443905740610209342009-02-03T09:39:00.000-08:002009-02-03T09:42:32.316-08:00More Tudor<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBBqMvsi2ZHDu9Z-HlnbabxT_ODq7JltyBH0AHI-egseIzJu7pOZuCLsEBxNMZxNe57cWIXz1hk0MUjL50Fg0jKY9K0eblExdckqJqR_R7N5l3pMuG3-RIO3nRdG9R_3-V7l6XR7smdi-x/s1600-h/alltudor.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 286px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBBqMvsi2ZHDu9Z-HlnbabxT_ODq7JltyBH0AHI-egseIzJu7pOZuCLsEBxNMZxNe57cWIXz1hk0MUjL50Fg0jKY9K0eblExdckqJqR_R7N5l3pMuG3-RIO3nRdG9R_3-V7l6XR7smdi-x/s400/alltudor.gif" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298627820055679554" /></a><br />Click on the image to see the "flats", or technical drawings, of each of the Tudor Lady's Wardrobe garments.Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1579391240961438861.post-9323005364369265272009-02-02T16:58:00.000-08:002009-02-02T17:21:33.251-08:00Tudor!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE3T1mu0MV8UIYuUwXgyP9qhgxNbT_POlTkNjPx39FTOzk8EFwiOA0oIhTMR00bW5Lb1n4hyphenhyphenKEvKFfu9mnKo6p4H-CDy02R0QbC_Zospp2uCIZ6wR0s58pFNf-GrChHgqsa1ODavKsXWyY/s1600-h/Tudorwomen.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 192px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE3T1mu0MV8UIYuUwXgyP9qhgxNbT_POlTkNjPx39FTOzk8EFwiOA0oIhTMR00bW5Lb1n4hyphenhyphenKEvKFfu9mnKo6p4H-CDy02R0QbC_Zospp2uCIZ6wR0s58pFNf-GrChHgqsa1ODavKsXWyY/s400/Tudorwomen.gif" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298374150591853154" /></a><br />Welcome to my blog!<div><br /></div><div>Let's start with an exciting announcement: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe Pattern is at the grading service, and we expect to release it in mid March.</div><div><br /></div><div>Like our other wardrobe patterns, the Tudor Lady is a large package with numerous variations. It contains a smock, detachable wrist ruffles, a kirtle with supportive bodice, a gown with three sleeve styles and an optional train, three undersleeves, two partlets, and three hats: A linen coif, a French hood, and a gable hood. Instructions will also be given for simple patternless accessories such as an apron, headrail, and sash.</div><div><br /></div><div>Since any woman can be a lady, no matter what her social station, the Tudor Lady's wardrobe can also be made in lower class style, by using the appropriate options. The Tudor style is also perfectly adapted for pregnancy. </div><div><br /></div><div>The artist is still at work on the package cover, but clicking on the image above will give you a detailed look at some of the options.</div><div><br /></div><div>We will begin taking advance orders when the patterns go to the printers, in aproximately 2-3 weeks.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div>Margo Andersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11659664643326903187noreply@blogger.com3